Planting
 
After you have purchased your tree look after it! Ensure you protect its roots and do not let them dry out. If you are unable to plant without delay (or you have several trees to plant) and the tree is bare rooted it should be ‘heeled in’ until you are in a position to plant it permanently. Heeling in is to dig a trench at 45°, lay the tree down with its roots in the trench, backfill over the roots and firm down with your heel.
 
Some people recommend planting into a specially prepared planting mixture. Whilst this will no doubt be beneficial to the tree when planted but will only last for so long, eventually it will have to fend for its self. A well selected and planted tree in a suitable environment should look after its self.
 
There are basically two different methods of planting used:
 
  • Small transplants and cell grown stock are normally planted by the ‘slit’ or ‘notch’ method commonly used in forestry. It is a very quick method and can be used to plant a great many trees with relative ease in a short period of time. Ensure the ground condition is suitable (not compacted/waterlogged/etc).
 
  • Insert a spade into the ground to a greater depth to that of the roots and move the spade back and forward to open the soil.
 
  • Place the transplant into the hole to below its original soil level ensuring that no roots are trapped
 
  • Pull the transplant up so as the soil level matches its existing planted level and firm the soil around the tree with your feet (1) which will in turn infill around the roots (2). Ensure the transplant is upright.
 
 
  • Container grown, root balled and larger bare rooted trees should be ‘pit planted’.
 
  • Excavated a hole of sufficient diameter to accommodate the roots spread in their natural position and of sufficient depth to accommodate the tree.
 
  • Test place the tree into the hole to ensure it of sufficient size (it is very easy to dig a hole too small and very hard to dig one too big!).
 
  • Once you are sure the hole is of sufficient size loosen the soil in the bottom and around the sides of the hole (moisten if exceptionally dry)
 
  • Place the tree in the hole and ensure the finished soil level will match that of the tree original planting depth(use a straight edge if necessary).
 
  • Backfill the hole. Depending on the size of the hole it may be necessary to gently ‘firm in’ with your feet as you are going – once the roots are covered and taking care not to damage any roots.
 
  • When you are just below the finished level of the ground firm in well with your feet.
 
  • Apply the top layer leaving relatively loose, this will allow water to settle and not just run-off away from the tree. If the tree is planted on a slope you can loosen the soil on the top side of the tree which will help counteract run-off.
 
 
Watering
 
It should be sufficient to say that watering is down to common sense. Newly transplanted trees will need watering and this will have to continue during dry weather (dependent on time of year), but this should only be carried out as long as is necessary – wean off slowly if you like. Continuing to water when it is not required is a waste and will become detrimental to the trees natural development. Do not over water!
 
Staking
 
Larger transplanted stock are prone to movement during windy conditions, this should be prevented whist its root system is becoming established (about three years). If a tree needs to be staked do not place one vertically trough the roots after it has been planted. The stake should be positioned on the windward side of the tree before backfilling so as to avoid any damage to the roots. Other staking methods include:
 
On medium size trees:
 
  • Drive a post into the ground (avoiding the roots) at app. 45° facing towards the predominant wind direction on one plane and to hold the tree vertical on the other.
 
  • Fix a tie strap to the post and tie in the tree.
 
On large trees:
 
  • Drive three short posts into the ground (45° angle facing away from the tree) equally spaced around the tree (i.e. 120° to each other) at an average from the tree of approximately half its height.
 
  • Attach a length of wire to the post and pass this wire around the tree ideally over a fork in the tree. Running the wire at an angle of approximately 45°.
 
  • Thread a length of protective material onto the wire and position this around the tree to protect the bark.
 
  • Attach the other end of the wire back onto the post and tension so as to hold the tree vertical.
 
  • Repeat this process on all the posts. Adjustment can be achieved by placing a screwdriver or similar between the two wires and winding around to create a tourniquet until the tree is held secure and vertical.
 
Always keep a check on the ties of staked trees. They should be:
 
  • Tight enough to hold the tree,
 
  • Loose enough to allow for growth expansion.
 
  • Not so loose as to allow chaffing of the bark.